A Greek Adventure: Part 2
I’m in Sifnos. I’ve adopted a dog. I have a very clear head. I’ve been hiking and swimming lots and I’m full of spinach pie and moussaka.
Willkommen! Bienvenue! Welcome!
I’m still laughing about the horror of pulling into Santorini in the height of summer.
Cases in tow, taxi drivers and tour guides screeching for their lives. “Stay on the yellow path,” they yelled aggressively.
Howling at mum following me to what I deemed a lush café to set up shop for our four hour wait for the next ferry. Truth be told, I liked the look of their furniture.
“You can’t sit here,” said the café owner as I maneuvered towards a four-seater in the shade – it looked perfect. “You can sit back there.”
“Well, I don’t want to sit back there in the dark,” I barked.
“So don’t then,” angry café man said.
“Well, I’ll find somewhere better to sit and spend our money,” I snapped as a huffed noisily in the blazing midday sun with sweat dribbling down my back. “Come on mum. – we’re off.”
Cut to Mum sheepishly followed me like an embarrassed little duckling following its angry bird mother. Role reversal or what…
We eventually found a lovely spot out the way that couldn’t have been any nicer for a ferry port stop. Look up Makis Café if you happen to need a calm sanctuary to hang with your luggage where the owners are polite and calm.
Time passed quickly as thousands piled in on endless ferries. Santorini is somewhere I’d only consider if I was married to a millionaire and in need of an ultra-lux break in Oia. I’d probably only ever consider a visit in an off-season scenario.
Anyway, to far better climbs. Three hours later we made it to our second stop, the island of Sifnos.
Nestled in the northwest of the island, we arrived at the port of Kamares and instantly felt the calm wash over us. I’ve been here two years in a row already. Mum came last year and immediately felt its charm. It’s like stepping back in time. Very few Brits, nobody I’m likely to bump into and compared to Crete somewhere I feel I can breathe easier.
It's hard to describe the feeling of calm when travelling. It’s more of a feeling you get in your chest. Everything feels easier. Nothing stressful. Just a perfectly pitched energy that rears its head as soon as you arrive.
After all, this was a trip that I felt I really needed. Sat here as the end of our Sifnos days, I’ve stopped needing my daily siesta (I’m a firm believer in holiday siestas) and I’m ready to explore the next island. My energy is well and truly back in business. Well, I’m sad to be leaving Sifnos.
What have we done here? Erm, not much. And that’s just the way we like it. I’m on book number six – see below for all I’ve been reading. I’ve been hiking every other day from Kamares up to the hillside town of Apollonia – the cutest little village that reeks of Greece. Lots of cats, sleepy alleys, a gorgeous bakery (which provides my halfway point sustenance) and a little supermarket. It’s a 12k hike in total – and with nothing but a podcast or the occasional dribble of Madonna or Charli XCX I’ve been marching away the stress of London with my 7.30am trips up the hill and back. The walk is actually a pretty impressive dent into the island itself if you look at the map below…
Another thing has happened. We’ve been joined on our adventures by an energetic pup called Aris. He’s been a joy and by our side since we arrived. He’s clearly young – he could literally play fetch with a ball all day long if he had his way. He came bouncing round the corner this morning at 7am with the look of excitement planted on his face. He’s super loving yet very dopey, hates the sea (and has lost several balls because he won’t get in to get them!) and has even been joining me when I siesta on the floor of my room. I love the fact the locals here appear to look after their animals. There’s a lovely grey cat in our little studio apartments that regularly comes to say hello too. Admittedly, usually if she smells a hint of chicken.
I’d love to be able to give you a huge schpiel of the island all the sights to see. But to be honest we’ve not left the town to do any touristy exploring. I hike, I flop, I read, I swim, I siesta, I read, I swim, I get showered and we either eat at the local taverna or I do a ‘gyros run’ across the bay and we eat on the balcony of the studios.
It’s my third time at Aglaia Studios here. Run by Antonis, it ticks all the boxes of simplicity for bumming around the Greek Islands. Super clean, super quiet and a perfect vibe.
Set on the headland opposite where the ferries come in throughout the day (which hilariously STILL manage to make mum jump when they toot their horns), Aglaia provides the cutest watch point for the activity of the town without having to be anywhere near the tourist vibes. It’s a proper escape.
There’s a Mamma Mia-esque pathway down the sea and I dive in where I swim to the shore (no idea how far but probably 500m ish) and back. Looking below the surface it’s rammed with healthy seagrass (will please my marine conservation friends immensely), schools of fish and lots of fledgling sea urchins. It really is a little slice of heaven staying here and feeling like you’re super content but nowhere near the action of a tourist trail.
Check out Aglaia Studios HERE btw.
Truth be told, I was reluctant to write about this place. I hate the thought of it becoming touristy and twatty. Please don’t let Sifnos go all Mykonos and twatty. For me, this little patch I’ve found feels like all I need to recharge the batteries, allow my brain to chill out and wipe the slate clean before a very busy couple of months ahead.
In short, thanks to Sifnos I feel like a new person. Again.
To end, here’s my list of holiday reads so far. I’ve enjoyed them all in their individual ways. Would recommend them being added to your lists. No turkeys.
1. Still Life, by Sarah Winman
2. Missing Presumed, by Susie Steiner
3. In Memoriam, by Alice Winn
4. Honey Bee, by Dawn O’Porter
5. Elsewhere, by Gebrielle Zevin
And finally, here’s a podcast I loved listening to on one of my hikes. It’s a conversation between Scott Feinberg and his Hollywood Reporter’s Awards Chatter pod with The Crown creator Peter Morgan. Really found this conversation fascinating. It’s made me want to start The Crown again. I might sink into that from the start of the winter and finally finish it. I skipped the last two seasons as was feeling a bit icky.
My final newsletter from the sleepy island of Syros will be coming up next week. Until then, be safe.